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 Woodworker's Central Woodworker's Gazette Shopcam HiLites |
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Woodworker's Central Woodworker's GazetteShopcam HiLites |
| For the most part, today was a re-enactment of yesterday morning - disassembling cabinets and sanding. I'm getting a little excited at the prospect of finishing. It's been more than a month and there are some outside pressures to get it done so I can go on to other stuff. Not from Mr. D. - you know who. ;) |  |
| Like the other upper cabinet, this one loses it's bottom and gets a temporary one for spraying and transporting. |  |
| And you know the drill - hard block the joints and ROS the faceframe with 100 grit. |  |
| One thing I didn't mention yesterday, it's helpful to lay a straightedge across the joints to make sure they're really flat. If not, the crown molding won't look right when it's nailed in place. |  |
| Lots of heat in the shop isn't good with the weather cold and dry outside. What little moisture is in the wood will escape quickly unless it's finished. Most homes have humidifiers so it's a good thing to mimic that environment and add a little moisture to the shop atmosphere. Not very hi-tech, but I'll take it. |  |
| Look Ma! No hands! :) |  |
| After the uppers are done, the two base cabinet tops have their front edge rounded over and sanded. Having them apart will ease spraying and fitting during installation. Mr. D. has a tablesaw in his basement and it might get used fitting these pieces in place. |  |
| Before removing the tops from the upper cabinets, I penciled around the bottom of the faceframe (lightly) so I could exactly locate one more screw pilot hole. This screw goes into the bottom of the faceframe during re-assembly at Mr. D.'s house. |  |
| All the drawer slide hardware is removed and tucked away until after finishing. The faces are saved for later when they'll be handled with the doors. |  |
| You know the drill...;) |  |
| After the drawer cabinet is sanded, then comes the door cabinet. As I remove the doors, I scratch a number in their bottom edge so I can put them back in place later. |  |
| One of the last details, and there are a few of them, is to secure the panels in the door frames. Since the back sides are plainly visible, a blob of hotmelt just isn't gonna cut it. Instead, a brass screw is run into the tongue about midway, and then the head is hacksawn off and the shank sanded flush to the walnut. |  |
| Here's a closeup. |  |
| Another detail, I want to bevel the outside edges of the drawer stiles. There is a certain amount of side play in the drawer slides and I want to make sure when the drawer is closed, the stiles don't catch the faceframe. I'll get a good picture of the bevel next time. |  |
| OK, all the cutting is done and it's time to sand the doors and drawer faces. You know the drill...;) |  |
| Finally, the last piece is the door base cabinet. At the end of the day, all the solid wood is sanded to 100 grit and all the plywood is sanded to 150 grit. I have about one more day of sanding, which includes breaking all the edges, and sanding the solid wood pieces to 150 grit, matching the plywood. I'm hoping I won't have to go to a finer grit but only a couple finish sample will tell me for sure. We're using a new finish this time but I hear it's the best. Stay tuned! |  |
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One more thing... The night before, I rough turned the columns which flank the fireplace opening. It's still oversized, and I'm debating how to shape the taper in the middle. I know the top has come down a bit - I'm wondering whether to have a straight taper or have the middle bulge in a classical column style. ( I can't remember the name - "Doric", "Ionic"?) If you have some ideas, send
me an email: |
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If you have any questions or comments about Mr. D's Walnut Wall Unit, please post them at the Info Exchange. Jim Mattson |
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